On a beautiful sunny March day I thought about what my reason for doing all this was. I could wax lyrical about the future of life, sustainability, climate catastrophe or what it means to be human in the 21st century; but for once i will plaguarise and with good reason.
I couldn't put it better then the venerable Bertrand Russell who died 40 years ago last month:
What I Have Lived For
"Three passions, simple but overwhelmingly strong, have governed my life: the longing for love, the search for knowledge, and unbearable pity for the suffering of mankind. These passions, like great winds, have blown me hither and thither, in a wayward course, over a deep ocean of anguish, reaching to the very verge of despair. I have sought love, first, because it brings ecstasy—ecstasy so great that I would often have sacrificed all the rest of life for a few hours of this joy. I have sought it, next, because it relieves loneliness—that terrible loneliness in which one shivering consciousness looks over the rim of the world into the cold unfathomable lifeless abyss. I have sought it, finally, because in the union of love I have seen, in a mystic miniature, the prefiguring vision of the heaven that saints and poets have imagined. This is what I sought, and though it might seem too good for human life, this is what—at last—I have found.
With equal passion I have sought knowledge. I have wished to understand the hearts of men. I have wished to know why the stars shine. And I have tried to apprehend the Pythagorean power by which number holds sway above the flux. A little of this, but not much, I have achieved.
Love and knowledge, so far as they were possible, led upward toward the heavens. But always pity brought me back to earth. Echoes of cries of pain reverberate in my heart. Children in famine, victims tortured by oppressors, helpless old people a hated burden to their sons, and the whole world of loneliness, poverty, and pain make a mockery of what human life should be. I long to alleviate the evil, but I cannot, and I too suffer.
This has been my life. I have found it worth living, and would gladly live it again if the chance were offered me."
Beautiful, wasn't he?
Friday, 5 March 2010
Wednesday, 3 March 2010
Soils
1. Investigate and report on the soil in your region. Visit the local library (ask to see a reference book if necessary) or contact and agricultural office. As a last resort you might even call a fertiliser company. If you can, ask other gardeners about the local soil conditions. Compare this information to what you can observe yourself. Does your own soil match the description? Is the local soil fertile? What are the negative factors affecting your regional soils? How will you compensate or work with these factors on your own plot?
We carried out research into the type of soils that our project site is part of. We collected information firstly from the British Geological Survey which categorised much of the Sussex coastline around Brighton & Hove to be London Clay up to 10 metres in depth with upper & middle chalk under that up to 325 metres in depth. “Head is the most widespread drift deposit of the district and varies considerably in lithology. It is a brown silty loam with variable content of flint & sandstone fragments.” (Brighton & Worthing – Solid & Drift Geology, England and Wales series sheet 318/333
Secondly we looked at the agricultural use of the area, which was classified as being predominantly in urban use (for obvious reasons as the project site is based in Brighton & Hove City boundary). But the areas within the city boundaries available to agricultural use are considered Grade 3. (Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries & Food – 1972)
Finally we looked at a very detailed map of the types of soil in our project area which were categorised as such:
Soil Group Parent Material
Rendzinas Chalk
Brown Earths Flinty Silty Head
Brown Calcerous Silty Chalky Head
(Soil Maps of Sussex Coastal Plan 631.4942)
If we compare our actual site to these provided, we can see that ours is very much a lime-rich soil over chalk, which fortunately provides reasonably fertile humus for us to use. The soil matches quite closely what these descriptions offer. It is a freely draining soil which we have talked about previously in the project and can mitigate against by providing solutions to prevent runoff. We should encounter few obstacles though to producing year round produce on our project site.
(We also found useful in researching this subject: www.landis.org.uk/soilscapes)
2. Carry out the soil test for particles (silt, sand and clay) outlined in this section. Be sure to use a smooth-sided glass jar with a wide mouth. Do three samples for accuracy. Send in a drawing of your findings. Buy or borrow a test kit for pH and use it on each sample.
All three samples returned a pH of 7.
Chemical characteristics of soil
The pH indicates the acidity or alkalinity (basic) of the soil. Different plants have differing optimum soil pH requirements. The majority of plants prefer a pH of around 6 to 7, which is very slightly acid.
The soil pH is important in determining the availability of soil minerals. At pH extremes some minerals are "locked up" and cannot be used by the plants, whilst other minerals may become toxic. e.g. aluminium, iron, zinc, copper, manganese and boron become more soluble under acidic conditions and can reach toxic levels. The application of different fertilisers can affect the pH of the soil.
If a soil is too acid then it can be modified by the addition of lime. If it is too alkaline then elemental sulfur may be added which is oxidised by specific soil bacteria to form sulfuric acid. Ploughing in green manure crops and animal manures also lowers soil pH. Soil pH can have an effect on microbial activity in the soil.
VEGETABLES pH
Asparagus 6.5-7.5
Bean, french 6.5-7.0
Bean, broad 5.5-7.0
Broccoli 6.5-7.5
Brussel sprouts 5.5-7.0
Cabbage 6.5-7.5
Cauliflower 6.5-7.5
Carrot 6.0-7.5
Celery 6.5-7.5
Cucumber 5.5-7.0
Lettuce 6.5-7.5
Leek 6.5-7.5
Onion 6.5-7.5
Potato 5.5-6.5
Rhubarb 5.0-6.0
Swede 6.5-7.0
Tomato 5.5-7.0
Turnip 6.5-7.0
TREES & SHRUBS
Conifers 4.5-5.5
Deutzia 6.5-8.0
Escallonia 6.5-8.0
Forsythia 6.0-7.5
Heathers 4.5-5.5
Hydrangeas (blue) 4.5-5.5
Jasmin 6.0-7.5
Ligustrum 5.5-7.0
Magnolia 5.0-6.0
Philadelphus 6.5-8.0
Pyracantha 6.5-8.0
Prunus 6.5-8.0
Rhododendron 4.5-5.5
Willow 6.5-7.0
FRUIT
Apple 5.5-7.0
Black Currants 6.0-7.5
Cherries 5.5-6.5
Pears 5.5-7.0
Plums 6.0-7.5
Strawberries 5.0-6.0
We carried out research into the type of soils that our project site is part of. We collected information firstly from the British Geological Survey which categorised much of the Sussex coastline around Brighton & Hove to be London Clay up to 10 metres in depth with upper & middle chalk under that up to 325 metres in depth. “Head is the most widespread drift deposit of the district and varies considerably in lithology. It is a brown silty loam with variable content of flint & sandstone fragments.” (Brighton & Worthing – Solid & Drift Geology, England and Wales series sheet 318/333
Secondly we looked at the agricultural use of the area, which was classified as being predominantly in urban use (for obvious reasons as the project site is based in Brighton & Hove City boundary). But the areas within the city boundaries available to agricultural use are considered Grade 3. (Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries & Food – 1972)
Finally we looked at a very detailed map of the types of soil in our project area which were categorised as such:
Soil Group Parent Material
Rendzinas Chalk
Brown Earths Flinty Silty Head
Brown Calcerous Silty Chalky Head
(Soil Maps of Sussex Coastal Plan 631.4942)
If we compare our actual site to these provided, we can see that ours is very much a lime-rich soil over chalk, which fortunately provides reasonably fertile humus for us to use. The soil matches quite closely what these descriptions offer. It is a freely draining soil which we have talked about previously in the project and can mitigate against by providing solutions to prevent runoff. We should encounter few obstacles though to producing year round produce on our project site.
(We also found useful in researching this subject: www.landis.org.uk/soilscapes)
2. Carry out the soil test for particles (silt, sand and clay) outlined in this section. Be sure to use a smooth-sided glass jar with a wide mouth. Do three samples for accuracy. Send in a drawing of your findings. Buy or borrow a test kit for pH and use it on each sample.
All three samples returned a pH of 7.Chemical characteristics of soil
The pH indicates the acidity or alkalinity (basic) of the soil. Different plants have differing optimum soil pH requirements. The majority of plants prefer a pH of around 6 to 7, which is very slightly acid.
The soil pH is important in determining the availability of soil minerals. At pH extremes some minerals are "locked up" and cannot be used by the plants, whilst other minerals may become toxic. e.g. aluminium, iron, zinc, copper, manganese and boron become more soluble under acidic conditions and can reach toxic levels. The application of different fertilisers can affect the pH of the soil.
If a soil is too acid then it can be modified by the addition of lime. If it is too alkaline then elemental sulfur may be added which is oxidised by specific soil bacteria to form sulfuric acid. Ploughing in green manure crops and animal manures also lowers soil pH. Soil pH can have an effect on microbial activity in the soil.
VEGETABLES pH
Asparagus 6.5-7.5
Bean, french 6.5-7.0
Bean, broad 5.5-7.0
Broccoli 6.5-7.5
Brussel sprouts 5.5-7.0
Cabbage 6.5-7.5
Cauliflower 6.5-7.5
Carrot 6.0-7.5
Celery 6.5-7.5
Cucumber 5.5-7.0
Lettuce 6.5-7.5
Leek 6.5-7.5
Onion 6.5-7.5
Potato 5.5-6.5
Rhubarb 5.0-6.0
Swede 6.5-7.0
Tomato 5.5-7.0
Turnip 6.5-7.0
TREES & SHRUBS
Conifers 4.5-5.5
Deutzia 6.5-8.0
Escallonia 6.5-8.0
Forsythia 6.0-7.5
Heathers 4.5-5.5
Hydrangeas (blue) 4.5-5.5
Jasmin 6.0-7.5
Ligustrum 5.5-7.0
Magnolia 5.0-6.0
Philadelphus 6.5-8.0
Pyracantha 6.5-8.0
Prunus 6.5-8.0
Rhododendron 4.5-5.5
Willow 6.5-7.0
FRUIT
Apple 5.5-7.0
Black Currants 6.0-7.5
Cherries 5.5-6.5
Pears 5.5-7.0
Plums 6.0-7.5
Strawberries 5.0-6.0
Friday, 19 February 2010
Seasonal Foods - February
How did you all get on last month with your new found seasonal foods knowledge? Those of you local to me (Sussex) have a little help this month as i figured what better way to buy seasonal then to visit the local farmers markets, dates and times below:
Saturday 27th February, 10:00 - 15:00, Brighton & Hove Farmers market, George Street, Hove and the fourth Saturday of each month following.
Sunday 7th March, 10:00 - 15:00, Hove Farmers Market, Ralli Hall, Next to Hove Station and the first Sunday of subsequent months.
Saturday 13th March, Shoreham Farmers Market, East Street, Shoreham and the second Saturday of every other month.
There are others to be found in Burgess Hill, Haywards Heath, Worthing, Billinshurst, Petworth, Arundel, Chichester, Ford, Hassocks, Horsham, Midhurst, Slindon and Steyning, but i'm trying to encourage you to not travel too far for your locally produced fresh fruit and vegetables.
February Vegetables
Brussel Sprouts, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Leeks, Parsnips, Rhubarb, Shallots, Swede
February Seafood
Brill, Clams, Cockles, Haddock, Halibut, Hake, Lemon Sole, Mussels, Oysters, Salmon, Skate, Turbet, Winkles.
Opportunities are aplenty, so go out and buy fresh and seasonal. Yummy!
Saturday 27th February, 10:00 - 15:00, Brighton & Hove Farmers market, George Street, Hove and the fourth Saturday of each month following.
Sunday 7th March, 10:00 - 15:00, Hove Farmers Market, Ralli Hall, Next to Hove Station and the first Sunday of subsequent months.
Saturday 13th March, Shoreham Farmers Market, East Street, Shoreham and the second Saturday of every other month.
There are others to be found in Burgess Hill, Haywards Heath, Worthing, Billinshurst, Petworth, Arundel, Chichester, Ford, Hassocks, Horsham, Midhurst, Slindon and Steyning, but i'm trying to encourage you to not travel too far for your locally produced fresh fruit and vegetables.
February Vegetables
Brussel Sprouts, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Leeks, Parsnips, Rhubarb, Shallots, Swede
February Seafood
Brill, Clams, Cockles, Haddock, Halibut, Hake, Lemon Sole, Mussels, Oysters, Salmon, Skate, Turbet, Winkles.
Opportunities are aplenty, so go out and buy fresh and seasonal. Yummy!
Monday, 15 February 2010
Classical Landscape Patterns
1. Consider the region your chosen design site is located in. Does the region match any of the landscape types discussed in this section? Is your site representative of this region? Is its climate temperate (cold), tropical (hot) or desert (dry)?
Our chosen design site is typical of the Humid Landscape. The South Downs are all gentle sloping hills that start 50 miles to the west near Portsmouth and continue about another 30 miles east to Eastbourne. The climate is temperate pretty much for the entire United Kingdom not just our chosen design site, with an additional splash of coastal-type climate thrown in. The actual physical design site location is well protected from the typical coastal hazards of sand, salt and the prevailing winds as it lies on a slope facing eastwards thus being afforded protection.
2. Provide an analysis of characteristic features and design implications for your design site’s region. This should include information and design considerations for rainfall patterns (water collection, storage and distribution), hazards (wind, tsunamis, earthquake, landslides, fire) and seasonal temperatures (length of growing season, crop potential, insulation requirements).
To the bane of most English-people, we do not suffer from a lack of precipitation. It’s a rare month that we do not have a measurable amount of rainfall. The primary consideration for our design site is how to store rainfall from the wetter winters in order to supplement the drier summers. A couple of above-ground water collection devices (such as water butts) should suffice for the area of land we are designing for, supplemented by our pond which will provide water to resident mammals, birds, reptiles and insects.
We have also designed swales into our overall design in order to encourage the (heavy) rainfall to not simply runoff but to seep down through the soil layers, thus benefitting all our plants throughout the site. At this stage, we aren’t sure whether the site would benefit or in fact actually need any kind of irrigation system, we will continue to observe as the seasons change. Collection and storage for the entire site will be to the west which is on the upper part of the slope, allowing for easier transport of water down the slope.
The region doesn’t face much in the way of hazards. Some coastal erosion can take place, but this is currently mitigated by coastal defences. Our site is far enough inshore to not face this hazard and at a high enough level to avoid any potential future flooding. Our main concern on such a sloped site is soil erosion. We already plan to mitigate this by planting plenty of root stock as mentioned before to bind what remaining soil we have on our site.
“South East England combines the highest average daytime temperatures found in the British Isles with the highest sunshine averages on the British mainland. There are between 25 and 30 inches (630 and 760 mm) of rainfall; and there can be high variation of temperature between day and night. The climate of the coastal districts is strongly influenced by the sea, which, because of its tendency to warm up slower than land, can result in cooler temperatures than inland in the summer. In the autumn months, the coast sometimes has higher temperatures. Rainfall during the summer months is mainly from thunderstorms and thundery showers; from January to March the heavier rainfall is due to prevailing south-westerly frontal systems. The coast has consistently more sunshine than the inland areas: sea breezes, blowing off the sea, tend to clear any cloud from the coast.”
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sussex)
Our main aim is to better understand the seasonal growing cycles of all crops on our site because if we plan this into our design scheme the region offers us a 12-month growing season. We should be able to keep the site in productive use January to December regardless of the weather.
The coastal climate is hugely favourable meaning that we are only limited to our soil type and intensity of sun at this latitude in the potential for crops that we can sow, grow and eat. As long as we are sensible and we research our choices thoroughly, we should have a site full of a large variety of crops.
With the exception of the current winter which has been “the coldest in over 30 years” (according to the Met Office), we rarely get harsh winters. Our winters are on average wet and mild with additional wet. We should be aware of some of the less hardy perennials that we choose and protect them as a matter of course with mulching or simply position them close to protective cousins like trees or hedgerows. The appropriate protection strategy will be zone dependent, zones 0 and 1 being where most foodstuffs will be cultivated thus being the focus of much of our protective thinking. Although mentioned above, the amount of rainfall offers benefits from a growing perspective; it of course can cause us headaches when trying to prevent rotting of any surplus we may produce. We ironically will need to find a way to remove moisture, when all other attempts in our design seem to work in the opposite direction, to protect crops. Proper dry storage will be essential. (http://www.vegetableexpert.co.uk/how-dry-store-vegetables-grown.html)
Our chosen design site is typical of the Humid Landscape. The South Downs are all gentle sloping hills that start 50 miles to the west near Portsmouth and continue about another 30 miles east to Eastbourne. The climate is temperate pretty much for the entire United Kingdom not just our chosen design site, with an additional splash of coastal-type climate thrown in. The actual physical design site location is well protected from the typical coastal hazards of sand, salt and the prevailing winds as it lies on a slope facing eastwards thus being afforded protection.
2. Provide an analysis of characteristic features and design implications for your design site’s region. This should include information and design considerations for rainfall patterns (water collection, storage and distribution), hazards (wind, tsunamis, earthquake, landslides, fire) and seasonal temperatures (length of growing season, crop potential, insulation requirements).
To the bane of most English-people, we do not suffer from a lack of precipitation. It’s a rare month that we do not have a measurable amount of rainfall. The primary consideration for our design site is how to store rainfall from the wetter winters in order to supplement the drier summers. A couple of above-ground water collection devices (such as water butts) should suffice for the area of land we are designing for, supplemented by our pond which will provide water to resident mammals, birds, reptiles and insects.
We have also designed swales into our overall design in order to encourage the (heavy) rainfall to not simply runoff but to seep down through the soil layers, thus benefitting all our plants throughout the site. At this stage, we aren’t sure whether the site would benefit or in fact actually need any kind of irrigation system, we will continue to observe as the seasons change. Collection and storage for the entire site will be to the west which is on the upper part of the slope, allowing for easier transport of water down the slope.
The region doesn’t face much in the way of hazards. Some coastal erosion can take place, but this is currently mitigated by coastal defences. Our site is far enough inshore to not face this hazard and at a high enough level to avoid any potential future flooding. Our main concern on such a sloped site is soil erosion. We already plan to mitigate this by planting plenty of root stock as mentioned before to bind what remaining soil we have on our site.
“South East England combines the highest average daytime temperatures found in the British Isles with the highest sunshine averages on the British mainland. There are between 25 and 30 inches (630 and 760 mm) of rainfall; and there can be high variation of temperature between day and night. The climate of the coastal districts is strongly influenced by the sea, which, because of its tendency to warm up slower than land, can result in cooler temperatures than inland in the summer. In the autumn months, the coast sometimes has higher temperatures. Rainfall during the summer months is mainly from thunderstorms and thundery showers; from January to March the heavier rainfall is due to prevailing south-westerly frontal systems. The coast has consistently more sunshine than the inland areas: sea breezes, blowing off the sea, tend to clear any cloud from the coast.”
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sussex)
Our main aim is to better understand the seasonal growing cycles of all crops on our site because if we plan this into our design scheme the region offers us a 12-month growing season. We should be able to keep the site in productive use January to December regardless of the weather.
The coastal climate is hugely favourable meaning that we are only limited to our soil type and intensity of sun at this latitude in the potential for crops that we can sow, grow and eat. As long as we are sensible and we research our choices thoroughly, we should have a site full of a large variety of crops.
With the exception of the current winter which has been “the coldest in over 30 years” (according to the Met Office), we rarely get harsh winters. Our winters are on average wet and mild with additional wet. We should be aware of some of the less hardy perennials that we choose and protect them as a matter of course with mulching or simply position them close to protective cousins like trees or hedgerows. The appropriate protection strategy will be zone dependent, zones 0 and 1 being where most foodstuffs will be cultivated thus being the focus of much of our protective thinking. Although mentioned above, the amount of rainfall offers benefits from a growing perspective; it of course can cause us headaches when trying to prevent rotting of any surplus we may produce. We ironically will need to find a way to remove moisture, when all other attempts in our design seem to work in the opposite direction, to protect crops. Proper dry storage will be essential. (http://www.vegetableexpert.co.uk/how-dry-store-vegetables-grown.html)
Thursday, 11 February 2010
The Home Project
I feel it's my responsibility to draw your attention to this movie. Remove the voice over and it makes for a simply beautiful documentary of images from the air. Listen to the voice over and it makes a compelling case for action. It is beautiful, heart-breaking, uplifting and pretrifying all at the same time, but i implore you, please take the time to watch it and think about what is being said. Think about your contribution to the issues. Think about your life, the lives of your friends and the future lives of those that will come after us.
Whether you are touched or not, how can you fail to be, please pass this on.
"We are living in exceptional times. Scientists tell us that we have 10 years to change the way we live, avert the depletion of natural resources and the catastrophic evolution of the Earth's climate.
The stakes are high for us and our children. Everyone should take part in the effort, and HOME has been conceived to take a message of mobilization out to every human being.
For this purpose HOME needs to be free. A patron, the PPR Group, made this possible. Europacorp, the distributor, also pledged not to make any profit because HOME is a non-profit film.
HOME has been made for you: share it! And act for the planet.
Yann Arthus-Bertrand"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqxENMKaeCU&feature=channel
Whether you are touched or not, how can you fail to be, please pass this on.
"We are living in exceptional times. Scientists tell us that we have 10 years to change the way we live, avert the depletion of natural resources and the catastrophic evolution of the Earth's climate.
The stakes are high for us and our children. Everyone should take part in the effort, and HOME has been conceived to take a message of mobilization out to every human being.
For this purpose HOME needs to be free. A patron, the PPR Group, made this possible. Europacorp, the distributor, also pledged not to make any profit because HOME is a non-profit film.
HOME has been made for you: share it! And act for the planet.
Yann Arthus-Bertrand"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqxENMKaeCU&feature=channel
Monday, 8 February 2010
Collapse Gap Revisited
Good Monday to you.
Two for you this week to get your heads around. Dmitry makes some comments on another article written by Richard Heinberg regarding collapse preparation of the last two superpowers US and China.
"What would make more sense than just trying to put off the inevitable is quite simply to build resilience throughout society, re-localizing basic social systems involving food, manufacture, and finance." - Richard's article can be read here http://www.postcarbon.org/article/67429-china-or-the-u-s-which-will.
"Since collapse is unavoidable, the obvious fall-back strategy would be to invest in local resiliency and self-sufficiency. Since neither government appears the least bit interested in such matters, it is time for us to recognize them for what they are to us: utterly irrelevant. Paying attention to national politics can only distract us from doing whatever we can as individuals and local communities." - Dmitry's comments can be read here http://cluborlov.blogspot.com/2010/02/collapse-gap-revisited.html.
My own thoughts on both are that i'm heading in the right direction. We must all move towards a lower energy use future, whereby local communities provide as much as they can for themselves (remember permaculture 101, individaul Self-Reliance AND Community Self-Sufficiency). We can prepare ourselves for a more austere way of living. We can renew old friendships and seek out new ones. We can learn something new, this week, or this month, or this year, but learn we must! We can do so much now to help ourselves... the alternative is to wait and hope that our "leaders" will make the right decisions for us and provide for us when we can't.
Your call.
Two for you this week to get your heads around. Dmitry makes some comments on another article written by Richard Heinberg regarding collapse preparation of the last two superpowers US and China.
"What would make more sense than just trying to put off the inevitable is quite simply to build resilience throughout society, re-localizing basic social systems involving food, manufacture, and finance." - Richard's article can be read here http://www.postcarbon.org/article/67429-china-or-the-u-s-which-will.
"Since collapse is unavoidable, the obvious fall-back strategy would be to invest in local resiliency and self-sufficiency. Since neither government appears the least bit interested in such matters, it is time for us to recognize them for what they are to us: utterly irrelevant. Paying attention to national politics can only distract us from doing whatever we can as individuals and local communities." - Dmitry's comments can be read here http://cluborlov.blogspot.com/2010/02/collapse-gap-revisited.html.
My own thoughts on both are that i'm heading in the right direction. We must all move towards a lower energy use future, whereby local communities provide as much as they can for themselves (remember permaculture 101, individaul Self-Reliance AND Community Self-Sufficiency). We can prepare ourselves for a more austere way of living. We can renew old friendships and seek out new ones. We can learn something new, this week, or this month, or this year, but learn we must! We can do so much now to help ourselves... the alternative is to wait and hope that our "leaders" will make the right decisions for us and provide for us when we can't.
Your call.
Tuesday, 2 February 2010
Pattern in Design
1. Review the client checklist forms in Appendix four: Patterns. These forms can be used in conjunction with the forms provided in Appendix Three: Design. Fill in the Outcomes form for the site you previously chose for your project.
· Overall we are looking to design a self-sustaining site on a relatively new site that has had little previous work carried out on it.
· We are looking to make this a vegetarian project focusing on making the entire area an ‘edible’ landscape.
· The outdoors is very important to us, but we have no need for the traditional English lawn area. Getting outside, working outside, socialising outside is critical to the type of ‘lifestyle’ we are trying to create.
· The site’s size is limited so we must maximise the edges and margins.
· We want to experiment with forest garden ideas, as this is a highly productive and self-fertile system; we also grew up around the New Forest National Park.
· We want to use lessons from Earthship design and build, or at least borrow from the ethos of green building.
· Substantial grey water collection and reed filtration are also preferred. Composting toilets will also be our human waste disposal of choice.
· Due to the angled geography to the west aspect of the site, much of that side of the building could be part-buried improving insular properties. We’d like to include some geothermal capacity to the property to assist with warming.
· Recycled materials are to be used extensively.
· We want to have lots of experimental build ideas as the challenge is as important as the technologies available. Eco-build from start to finish.
2. Observe your chosen site. Note the functions taking place (how the elements interact with other elements in the system). Consider the functions and elements you want in your system and develop implementation strategies to create them. Fill in the Patterns form in Appendix four: Patterns. This may be difficult if you are not familiar with the site. Be sure to include any patterns of behaviour the client may have.
Patterns -Initial Comments
Frost covers most of the SW corner of the site. Because we are new to the site we have yet to observe how extensive this will be stretching over the rest of the site. - We’ve decided to mitigate this by positioning our property in this location.
Site has substantial angle and we must consider water retention policy we will employ. -Designing swales and a dew pond for over-spill collection from rainwater collection to be designed into the overall build to help minimise runoff problem.
Summer offers full sun to entire site. - We’re designing large amounts of fruit stock to offer dappled shade for both plants and house.
Occasional vacation but not often for long or the same time each year. - Ensure that planting scheme is self-fertile and low maintenance.
3. Consider the special influence of edge on the designs you produced for the last section. Discuss how you will manipulate edge to improve your site design. Remember to maximise edge to increase productivity options and minimise edge when conserving energy. (Anticipate that future assignments will further redevelop your chosen site.)
We have already identified that with the limited space available to us that we must adapt our design to make the most of all the tiny margins we find around it. The steps we are endeavouring to take in order to take advantage of these margins are:
· Plant hedgerows, which we hope to encourage predators and diverse wildlife along with ensuring our hedgerows can provide a yield for us too, brambles are all over the area providing food not just for us, but our animal friends too.
· Spiral planting, to offer more edges but also allowing for a closer cultivation pathway. This will give us close access to our planting schemes whilst not removing productive areas with unnecessary pathways.
· Forest gardening, as mentioned above is a passion for us and with the basic seven-layer approach we can utilise much more of not just the horizontal plane but also design vertical growth into our site.
· Trellising, the access road is quite wide and intrudes through the entire site, by constructing ‘trellis-like’ structure to the sides and over the top of this access road, we increase the areas with which to grow on, including climbing plants to our overall design scheme.
We have plenty of additional margin opportunities that we believe will become apparent the more observations we make, but for now these above are the clearest opportunities we see.
· Overall we are looking to design a self-sustaining site on a relatively new site that has had little previous work carried out on it.
· We are looking to make this a vegetarian project focusing on making the entire area an ‘edible’ landscape.
· The outdoors is very important to us, but we have no need for the traditional English lawn area. Getting outside, working outside, socialising outside is critical to the type of ‘lifestyle’ we are trying to create.
· The site’s size is limited so we must maximise the edges and margins.
· We want to experiment with forest garden ideas, as this is a highly productive and self-fertile system; we also grew up around the New Forest National Park.
· We want to use lessons from Earthship design and build, or at least borrow from the ethos of green building.
· Substantial grey water collection and reed filtration are also preferred. Composting toilets will also be our human waste disposal of choice.
· Due to the angled geography to the west aspect of the site, much of that side of the building could be part-buried improving insular properties. We’d like to include some geothermal capacity to the property to assist with warming.
· Recycled materials are to be used extensively.
· We want to have lots of experimental build ideas as the challenge is as important as the technologies available. Eco-build from start to finish.
2. Observe your chosen site. Note the functions taking place (how the elements interact with other elements in the system). Consider the functions and elements you want in your system and develop implementation strategies to create them. Fill in the Patterns form in Appendix four: Patterns. This may be difficult if you are not familiar with the site. Be sure to include any patterns of behaviour the client may have.
Patterns -Initial Comments
Frost covers most of the SW corner of the site. Because we are new to the site we have yet to observe how extensive this will be stretching over the rest of the site. - We’ve decided to mitigate this by positioning our property in this location.
Site has substantial angle and we must consider water retention policy we will employ. -Designing swales and a dew pond for over-spill collection from rainwater collection to be designed into the overall build to help minimise runoff problem.
Summer offers full sun to entire site. - We’re designing large amounts of fruit stock to offer dappled shade for both plants and house.
Occasional vacation but not often for long or the same time each year. - Ensure that planting scheme is self-fertile and low maintenance.
3. Consider the special influence of edge on the designs you produced for the last section. Discuss how you will manipulate edge to improve your site design. Remember to maximise edge to increase productivity options and minimise edge when conserving energy. (Anticipate that future assignments will further redevelop your chosen site.)
We have already identified that with the limited space available to us that we must adapt our design to make the most of all the tiny margins we find around it. The steps we are endeavouring to take in order to take advantage of these margins are:
· Plant hedgerows, which we hope to encourage predators and diverse wildlife along with ensuring our hedgerows can provide a yield for us too, brambles are all over the area providing food not just for us, but our animal friends too.
· Spiral planting, to offer more edges but also allowing for a closer cultivation pathway. This will give us close access to our planting schemes whilst not removing productive areas with unnecessary pathways.
· Forest gardening, as mentioned above is a passion for us and with the basic seven-layer approach we can utilise much more of not just the horizontal plane but also design vertical growth into our site.
· Trellising, the access road is quite wide and intrudes through the entire site, by constructing ‘trellis-like’ structure to the sides and over the top of this access road, we increase the areas with which to grow on, including climbing plants to our overall design scheme.
We have plenty of additional margin opportunities that we believe will become apparent the more observations we make, but for now these above are the clearest opportunities we see.
Friday, 22 January 2010
Seasonal Foods - January
So, it's one thing to say we should all eat locally produced and seaonal food, but i bet some of you are asking why? Well to those people i say d'Uh, isn't it obvious?
Seasonal food is fresher and for the most part means tastier! This reduces the amount of energy needed to grow and transport the foodstuffs from further afield, reducing our overal CO2 associated emissions. Typically this also reduces the cost of the food too, as it's not having to travel so far to your plate, it also supports your local economy, local community and reconnects us all with nature's cycle.
I'm not embarking on this little project in some vain attempt to make us all buy British, or American, or whereever you're from; but come on, why would you buy Asparagus from South Africa or Apples from New Zealand when both these can be sourced many months of the year here in the UK and are often better tasting with a wider variety to boot!
So bear with me whilst i find my feet with this. I have challenged Jess to come up with a delicious recipe each month, using only ingredients that are in season. I have asked Andy to do a similar job to me but to identify sowing and planting schedules from month to month; those to follow.
January Vegetables
Beetroot, Brussel Sprouts, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Leeks, Parsnips, Purple Sprouting Brocolli, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, Swede, Turnips, Celery, Shallots.
January Fruit
Apples, Pears.
January Seafood
Brill, Crab, Mackerel, Monkfish, Mussells, Oysters, Plaice, Skate, Hake, Halibut, Lemon Sole, Langoustine, Sea Bream, Turbot.
They you go, January's choices are pretty plentiful so don't be shy, get out there, search for your locally produced and seasonal foodstuffs this weekend!
Seasonal food is fresher and for the most part means tastier! This reduces the amount of energy needed to grow and transport the foodstuffs from further afield, reducing our overal CO2 associated emissions. Typically this also reduces the cost of the food too, as it's not having to travel so far to your plate, it also supports your local economy, local community and reconnects us all with nature's cycle.
I'm not embarking on this little project in some vain attempt to make us all buy British, or American, or whereever you're from; but come on, why would you buy Asparagus from South Africa or Apples from New Zealand when both these can be sourced many months of the year here in the UK and are often better tasting with a wider variety to boot!
So bear with me whilst i find my feet with this. I have challenged Jess to come up with a delicious recipe each month, using only ingredients that are in season. I have asked Andy to do a similar job to me but to identify sowing and planting schedules from month to month; those to follow.
January Vegetables
Beetroot, Brussel Sprouts, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Leeks, Parsnips, Purple Sprouting Brocolli, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, Swede, Turnips, Celery, Shallots.
January Fruit
Apples, Pears.
January Seafood
Brill, Crab, Mackerel, Monkfish, Mussells, Oysters, Plaice, Skate, Hake, Halibut, Lemon Sole, Langoustine, Sea Bream, Turbot.
They you go, January's choices are pretty plentiful so don't be shy, get out there, search for your locally produced and seasonal foodstuffs this weekend!
Monday, 18 January 2010
The Oceans are Coming - Part III
So Excessmas is over (see what i did there!) so back to reality and the need to get thinking ecologically. We've (the Palmer contributors) decided in order to offer more and to help us think about what we need to be doing, we are going to start a monthly theme. This Palmer will be offering his musings on which seasonable foods are good to eat right now, pregnant Palmer will be using my scribblibngs to come up with some recipes that include those seasonal foods and brother Palmer will be offering his advice on what we should be planting as we go through the year, so keep your eyes peeled.
Permaculture is still central to our lifes right now, with more to follow shortly. What with baby Palmer on the way, we need to get on with the course and finished before the summer comes.
Ok todays posting is another one from one of my favourites, Dmitry Orlov. Part three in his series of approaching oceans and elements of it back up my spurious claim earlier in the blog about boats being eco-living personified. Enjoy.
http://cluborlov.blogspot.com/2010/01/oceans-are-coming-part-iii-remaining.html
Permaculture is still central to our lifes right now, with more to follow shortly. What with baby Palmer on the way, we need to get on with the course and finished before the summer comes.
Ok todays posting is another one from one of my favourites, Dmitry Orlov. Part three in his series of approaching oceans and elements of it back up my spurious claim earlier in the blog about boats being eco-living personified. Enjoy.
http://cluborlov.blogspot.com/2010/01/oceans-are-coming-part-iii-remaining.html
Wednesday, 2 December 2009
Design Methodologies
1. Thoroughly review the information provided in Appendix Three: Design. Essentially this information provides examples of some of the information you would be required to supply for either a client of for yourself. At this time please choose a site for your own project. It may be your current dwelling or a proposed one. You might even use a friend’s property. Choose something close and accessible, as you will need to return to it to complete additional assignments. A quarter acre site (1000 m²) will be more than ample for your first project!
2. Produce a preliminary map of the site – show all permanent features. Use grid or graph paper. Send in a copy of the map and retain the original for later use. Discuss the plan in a manner similar to that in Appendix Three. Be aware of your responses to this method of design.
We have selected a site on Whitehawk Hill in Brighton, East Sussex. The site is currently part of a collection of council allotments for residences to grow their own fruit and veg. We physically lease a small portion of the 1000 m² (around 200 m²) and the rest of the site is taken from the surrounding area. It is situated on the eastern slope of Whitehawk Hill, the top of which reaches 250 metres (see Map 3 below) and slopes reasonably steeply down to one of the numerous valley’s (Deans) that the Brighton and Hove area are famous for.
The entire site is a simple rectangle(ish) shape. It is bordered to the south by residential housing, the north, east and west by productive allotment plots. Due to its location it has excellent access from the south east corner that travels west 2/3 of the way up the 1/4 acre site then turns 90 degrees to the north. The under-lying geology for this entire area is predominantly chalk (see Map 2 below), where drainage is pretty free. The summers in the Sussex area are warm averaging 19 degrees Celsius and the winters are very mild averaging 7 degrees Celsius. The average annual rainfall is 715mm with November through January being the wettest months with 91mm, 71mm and 71mm respectively. The moderating effect of the South Downs to the north of this area coupled with its close proximity to the sea keeps the entire area free of weather extremes, for the most part.
Planting guide - evergreens to the north for wind, privacy and frost protection and deciduous to the south for summer shade and winter warmth.
Much of the 1000 m² site has benefitted from cultivation and continues to be somewhat utilised in the production of a range of fruits and vegetables. More details pertaining to this can be found in the inventory later in Design Methodologies. Although it is on the east slope of Whitehawk Hill, it still benefits from good exposure to sun from sunrise to mid-afternoon at all times of the year, a more detailed look at this follows on the sector map.
An easterly slope is actually quite good – the ground warms up early in the spring and the slope is good for drainage. Westerly slopes can get VERY hot in the afternoon in the summer and northerly slopes are often damp, wet and unpleasant places to spend a lot of time in.
Map 2
2. Produce a preliminary map of the site – show all permanent features. Use grid or graph paper. Send in a copy of the map and retain the original for later use. Discuss the plan in a manner similar to that in Appendix Three. Be aware of your responses to this method of design.
We have selected a site on Whitehawk Hill in Brighton, East Sussex. The site is currently part of a collection of council allotments for residences to grow their own fruit and veg. We physically lease a small portion of the 1000 m² (around 200 m²) and the rest of the site is taken from the surrounding area. It is situated on the eastern slope of Whitehawk Hill, the top of which reaches 250 metres (see Map 3 below) and slopes reasonably steeply down to one of the numerous valley’s (Deans) that the Brighton and Hove area are famous for.
The entire site is a simple rectangle(ish) shape. It is bordered to the south by residential housing, the north, east and west by productive allotment plots. Due to its location it has excellent access from the south east corner that travels west 2/3 of the way up the 1/4 acre site then turns 90 degrees to the north. The under-lying geology for this entire area is predominantly chalk (see Map 2 below), where drainage is pretty free. The summers in the Sussex area are warm averaging 19 degrees Celsius and the winters are very mild averaging 7 degrees Celsius. The average annual rainfall is 715mm with November through January being the wettest months with 91mm, 71mm and 71mm respectively. The moderating effect of the South Downs to the north of this area coupled with its close proximity to the sea keeps the entire area free of weather extremes, for the most part.
Planting guide - evergreens to the north for wind, privacy and frost protection and deciduous to the south for summer shade and winter warmth.
Much of the 1000 m² site has benefitted from cultivation and continues to be somewhat utilised in the production of a range of fruits and vegetables. More details pertaining to this can be found in the inventory later in Design Methodologies. Although it is on the east slope of Whitehawk Hill, it still benefits from good exposure to sun from sunrise to mid-afternoon at all times of the year, a more detailed look at this follows on the sector map.
An easterly slope is actually quite good – the ground warms up early in the spring and the slope is good for drainage. Westerly slopes can get VERY hot in the afternoon in the summer and northerly slopes are often damp, wet and unpleasant places to spend a lot of time in.
Map 2
Map 2 illustrates quite clearly the above mentioned composition of the whole of the Brighton area being dominated by chalk.
Map 3 illustrates the topography of the site and surrounding areas.
3. Produce a preliminary sector and zone plan of the site – show major information. Send in a copy and retain the original. Discuss the plan in a manner similar to that in Appendix Three. Be aware of your responses to this method of design.
Sector Map
In order to draft a highly accurate sector map, we would need to observe the sunrise and sunset angles not just times throughout the year. We can certainly update this though as we progress through the course. With that in mind, we have included 6 readings of sunrise and sunset times and the angle of sun in the sky; we will add the relative “compass” position of both sunrise and sunset later.
(www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/sunrise.html)
We usually tend to look at spring/autumn solstices but the real question is often “where is the sun rising/setting on the last day of killing frost in the spring and the first day of killing frost in the autumn (assuming that you have frost). These will be the dates that matter most for the property.
Zone Map
Zone 0
The residence in this instance is fictional as there will be no house built on this site. We will for the remainder of the course though assume there is a small two bedroom, one-storey property as indicated in the above zone map. For the exercise we have decided the best location was at the end of the top portion to provide good views and easy access. There will be a living (centre of activity) area, two sleeping areas, a parking area and food processing area.
Zone 1
This area is closest to the house to make easy access to the vegetables and herbs that we will use on a daily basis. Closest to the main dwelling on the shady side will be a storage area for bikes, gardening equipment, wood etc. There will be water collection points from the house and storage shed. We have also deemed swales necessary to help prevent too much surface run off of water. This will also be a recreation area along with herbaceous border and our own special thing, a bee garden.
Zone 2
This area is furthest from the home but is driven past to get to house so can keep an eye on it. This area will be orchard containing a variety of fruit trees, fruit bushes, nuts and some wild flowers. There will be some vegetables planted here like melons, corn and things that once planted won’t need much attention and usually have only a short harvest time. The fruit trees will be toward the furthest point as not to block sun from the main house. The wild flowers will draw in bees and other insects to the native plants to help then pollinate the garden. We also intend on introducing at this point our first animals, chickens.
Zones 3, 4 & 5
These areas all fall slightly outside our modest 1000m². But the majority of the land surrounding ours is mainly of Zone 1 and Zone 2 style. We have seen wild snakes, lizards, hedgehogs, frogs and toads and will offer any assistance to grow or at least maintain their habitats.
4. Begin inventorying your site. Use one sheet for plants, one for animals, one for structures etc. Bullet or point for is fine. Send in a copy and retain the original. Be aware of your responses to this method of design.
Structure Inventory
Existing
Main house with two bedrooms, open plan kitchen/diner, bathroom, utility/food processing area
Small outside shed for storage for tools, bike, and wood
Small poly tunnel for seedlings
Water to be heated by a solar water heater (http://www.reallygreenheating.co.uk/solar.html)
Heating by ground source heat pumps (http://www.reallygreenheating.co.uk/ground_source.html)
Wood burning stove (http://www.albioncanvas.co.uk/c44822/Wood-Burning-stoves.html)
Grey water collection system (http://www.greywater.com/treatment.htm)
Water collection from roof to be diverted to water containers, collection pond and swales
Fences are mainly natural hedgerows so will be mainly untouched
Composters are placed near to building
Wish list
Chicken pens
Worm bed
Beehives
Plant Inventory
Keep these lists handy and keep adding to them as you find new things of interest. Even if you haven’t got the resources to acquire them it’s a good idea to plan for them and leave space for things (animals, plants, facilities that you will want later).
Existing
Trees: Sycamore, Leylandii, Elder, Chestnut
Climbers:
Shrubs: Blackberry, Rose hip
Perennials:
Vegetables, Onion, Kale, Brussel Sprout, Garlic, Tomato,
Herbs: Rosemary, Lavender
Wish list
Trees: Apple, Hazelnut, Plum, Pear, Walnut, Quince
Climbers:
Shrubs: Mulberry, Goji Berry, Raspberry, Blackcurrant, Gooseberry, Tayberry, Loganberry, Hawthorn, Blueberry
Perennials: Strawberry, Grape
Vegetables:
Herbs:
Animal Inventory
Existing
None
Wish list
Chicken
Ducks
Geese
Animals are always a big issue – particularly if you have no prior experience with them – fowl are a real handful! Usually we add them to the mix last unless you are going to need them to condition the soil (such as using pigs to turn the soil over).
5. List your general observations and feelings about the site. Again, send in a copy and retain the original. Be aware of your responses to this method of design.
Initially it should be pointed out that we are imagining an accommodation structure on site as one does not exist. The biggest problem with living in an urban setting here in the UK is space. Over 60 million inhabitants on an island smaller then New Zealand (which incidentally only has about 4.5 million inhabitants) means that few are in possession of any sizeable piece of land. The only hope for most is to be allocated a local authority owned gardening allotment, the standard size of which is 250m². Compounding this is the fact that the Sussex coastline is a hugely popular place to live or visit. All available land is already owned, ear-marked or protected.
Most of the eastern end of Brighton, which encompasses our site, is made up of Deans (valleys) with predominantly chalk geology. Our site is located on the eastern side of one such dean which does in general offer a considerable amount of protection from the prevailing weather conditions, which in this part of the world are typically South-Westerly. The slope offers challenges, especially as far as water retention goes, but other than the slight inconvenience of this, it makes for a healthy workout getting to and from the site.
The entire area from the southern end of our site to the far northern end of the allotment complex benefits from years of diligent care and attention from allotment holders. Although a lot of the allotments have been utilised in a simple monoculture type approach, there has been attempts to add to the biomass of the site. There is certainly a need to continue with this pattern, as the under-lying chalk does not offer productive or fertile growing soil. An area of possibly one third of our site, to the eastern side, could benefit from the addition of biomass/soil as previously this has been scraped clean of soil in order to build up raised borders on it; which, quite frankly, was not the best idea by the previous allotment-holder.
The hedgerows to the western end of the site and along most of the northern border are not only edible landscapes, with blackberry and HUGE rosemary bushes, but offer habitat for a number of beneficial creatures (birds, hedgehogs, lizards, toads) that will add to the bio-diversity of our site. We have a number of mature trees which are not fruiting plants but will offer additional habitat for birds. There is reasonable access along a track on the eastern end of the site and another access track that follows the southern boundary and cuts across the site. This access is plenty big enough for a car to navigate.
With some attention this site I believe could be made extremely productive. Careful attention is needed in order to manage the water run-off in such a sloped location. But I think that with good composting technique and sourcing of other biomass sources, such as the local stables for horse manure can quickly improve the entire site into a viable and productive Permaculture venue.
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